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Hydrodynamics over a microtidal double crescentic barred beach in low energetic conditions (Leucate Beach, France)

Ferrer, P., Certain, R., Adloff, F., Bouchette, F., Barusseau, J.-P., Meulé, S. and Robin, N. (2011) Hydrodynamics over a microtidal double crescentic barred beach in low energetic conditions (Leucate Beach, France). Journal of Coastal Research (SI64). pp. 2032-2036. ISSN 0749-0208

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To link to this item DOI: 10.2112/SI64-2032-2036.1

Abstract/Summary

The south part nearshore zone of the Gulf of Lions coast (Mediterranean Sea) is characterized by a double crescentic sandbar system. During the winter 2007, a campaign of intensive hydrodynamical measurements (current profiles) was realized. During this campaign, based mainly on ADCPs, the maximal recorded wave height was 1.5 m. Four events were observed; two of those had northern incidence, one with southern incidence and a last one with frontal incidence. This paper proposes 3D hydrodynamical circulation maps over this microtidal bar system. The currents described reveals rip, bed-return and longshore currents strongly influenced by the wind-waves forcing and the bathymetry. At the apex of the oblique incidence events, the longshore component is the most important. The breaker zone is only located over the inner bar. During storm waning conditions, the cross-shore currents appear over the trough of the outer bar. The hydrodynamic circulation is then compared with other observations made in the literature.

Item Type:Article
Refereed:Yes
Divisions:Faculty of Science > School of Mathematical, Physical and Computational Sciences > Department of Meteorology
ID Code:70743
Publisher:Coastal Education and Research Foundation

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